Monday, June 10, 2013

AY-uh-fyat-luh-YOE-kuutl-uh

We drove by Eyjafjallajökull (AY-uh-fyat-luh-YOE-kuutl-uh) this weekend.

Newscasters around the world trying to pronounce it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jq-sMZtSww

Enjoy! 

(Actual updates to come.)

Friday, June 7, 2013

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Monday, 6/3/2013
-Went on a run with Laura. Didn't get lost this time. We are improving.
-Met up with Max and Dan of the Hveragerdi hot creek. They introduced us to a bakery that's basically across the street from our school. Having lived there a week already, we probably should have been the ones introducing it to them. We're all busy and cheap though. :-D

 
-We had our first guest lecturer of the class, Sólveig Thorvaldsdóttir, who talked about disaster function management.. basically, the planning that occurs pre-event and the things that need to happen once an events occurs (including learning from your experiences). The structural engineering and analysis part is really just a small portion of the whole process. I think I'd like to do some work in the post-event stages at some point in my life..
-Went to the university to finish up last bits of homework and were met there by Elijah and Jeff, friends of a friend. Made a big dinner + lots of cookies and Schtroumpfs for 6 (the 4 ladies and our visitors), then tried to find the one and only bar/club of Selfoss. It involved a midnight walk across the bridge. As it turns out, the one and only bar/club of Selfoss is not open on Monday evenings, but it was a lovely adventure nonetheless. On the way back, we discovered that the gas station has a 24 hour shop, and we helped push the car of someone whose car died.

 
-Bedtime.


Tuesday, 6/4/2013
-Travel day. Starting early. Apparently this means 9:45. Reason #287 why I love Iceland.
-Benedikt and Christian arrive to pick us up and we are informed that the party music is ready to go. We wonder about this. Enter Gus Gus and their song Selfoss!
-Not too long into our journey, we come to a stop and are told we are going to check something out. We are distracted by the intense wind and moderate rain until we look ahead and notice the following crator:


 Minds blown.
-Back in car. We come to a stop again, this time there are sheep on either side of the road, looking as if they want to cross. We wait a bit and try to cheer them on, and eventually they make their move. Icelandic lesson of the day, sheep = "kind" (pronounced something like "keend").
-Gus Gus suddenly transitions to everything from 50 Cent to La Bamba to Outkast to Walk Off the Earth to CARLY RAE JEPSEN. This is when we realize that our instructor has amazing taste in music and that we must obtain his party mix. Also The Immigrant Song, which captures the very essence of Iceland.
-We learn a lot of Icelandic on this trip. Bridge = Brú. Next time you cross one, try to repeatedly say "brú" until you get to the other side, all in one breath. Very challenging.
-Waterfall = Foss. We pass many of these.
-Þingvellir National Park, where the Mid Atlantic Ridge comes above ground. Again with the intense wind and rain. Iceland, the land of go big or go home. 




 (We all seem to be really be into either red or black jackets.)



-Then the 3ish mile long tunnel under a fjord. Dark and windy (curvy, not blustery.. is there any way to distinguish between these words in writing??). A dance party breaks out in the car. We think Benedikt and Christian are wondering what they got themselves into with this road trip. 
-Benedikt tells us he plans to stop at a bakery in about a half hour for lunch. Our responses are mumbled because we are stuffing our faces with cookies and smurf candy. Fail. Bakery is good though. We pick up "love balls" and kleina (essentially bow tie shaped donuts) and tebolla.
-We stop for a little mid road trip exercise, potentially ignoring some "do not hike here" signs in order to hike into the crater of a dormant volcano. 

(The crator.. you can see sort of a circular ridge. This is where the lava in the center sunk back down a little after the volcano was finished erupting.)

(Baby lava tube.)

We are nearly knocked over by the wind. It also makes it difficult to hear anything besides wooshing sounds. And interesting note: the mossy vegetation that seems to cover all of Iceland is very sensitive. Apparently some kids came to this volcano and spelled their names in the moss by ripping up some parts of it. Despite many efforts, the names are still there. I guess that makes it easier to track down the perpetrators..

(A windy, scree-filled hike back down the volcano.)

-Our last stop is in the town of Akureyri for dinner. This is Iceland's second largest urban area after Reykjavik. While we walk around and explore, Benedikt educates us on Icelandic lore: elves, trolls, fairies, and the 13 Yule Lads and Yule Cat of Christmas. The Yule Lads are mischievous and may also eat children. The Yule Cat eats children who don't get new clothes for Christmas.


Here are some of the mischievous activities these lads engage in: (Yule Lad 1) Harasses sheep, but is impaired by his stiff peg-legs. (Yule Lad 3) Abnormally short. Steals pans to eat the crust left on them. (Yule Lad 8) A Yule Lad with an affinity for skyr.

Iceland seriously just gets better and better. Evidence.

Also, dinner is good.






And we may have found the Loch Ness monster's Icelandic cousin:







This place is pretty: 





-And then one final detour before arrival in Húsavík. The night before we left Selfoss, there was a landslide on the road between Akureyri and Húsavík. The road is closed, but we do some more ignoring and drive down it a bit until we can see the landslide.



-Arrival in Húsavík is celebrated with driving up and over a very exciting ramp, and our first midnight trip to the cheese tub. (Note the sun.)








Sunday, June 2, 2013

And now the updates get shorter (but with pictures!):

Friday 5/31/13
-Ran with Laura 5ish miles to the north along the river and the Selfoss golf course. 9:30am class.
-More issues with installing Matlab and getting it to work with my Mac.
-Because of this, class ran over a bit with the lecture and Christian explaining our first homework. Then we did some planning for our trip to Northern Iceland. I got very hungry and ran off to get food at home. On the way there, downpour occurs. The others followed soon after and caught the full rain storm. Turns out the weather in Iceland changes very rapidly. That was fun. Front and back of pants ended up completely different colors from being soaked, haha. Looking into more intense rain gear..
-Recovered from the intense soaking for a bit, then headed back to the university for a homework part, complete with Smurf candy, which I am now obsessed with.
-Finished around 11pm and we all went back to the apartment to watch Stick It and drink Viking beer, which is basically not beer since it's approximately the same alcohol percentage as non-alcoholic beer. :-P



Saturday 6/1/13
-Tried to go on 4.5 mile run around the perimeter of town with Laura. Failed. Ended up going 8.1 miles around the perimeter of Arborg after we missed a turn. Highlights: running on various media (sand, gravel), going by a farm called Björk, lots and lots of horses, and not being able to hitchhike successfully.. no one would pick up the two unthreatening girls! (Turns out Iceland is one of the safest/best countries to hitchhike in.. it's considered a legitimate way to get around!: http://hitchwiki.org/en/Iceland)
-Power went out in our apartment :-/
-Went with our TA Christian to Hveragerdi (a town about 15 minutes away) to get some supplies and check out this earthquake exhibit. They have a Cal Academy of Science-style shake house and an example kitchen post-EQ (dishes broken everywhere).. but the coolest part: There is a see-through section of the floor directly above a fault they discovered! You can literally see a gap in the ground, and they have a sensor down there for recording future earthquakes. It was amazing! I hope we can convince the instructor to take us down into the basement to check it out up close..



-Hot creek hike in Hveragerdi. Amazing views. Random steam coming out of bubbling pots of water/mud in the ground. Horses. Mossy ground. Very soggy shoes. A waterfall at the end! And then the hot creek, which we spent a very long time lying around in and making friends with some other travelers. And then it started raining and we hiked very quickly back to the car. Oh yeah, and spending too much time standing in the rotten egg-smelling steam to take pictures.
-Our first night out in Reykjavik! Went to see Hallgrimskirkja (really big church). Tried fermented shark (smells HORRIBLE).. our TA made us do this and fully documented the experience.



Then got a bit of a driving tour, and finally tried to check out the main street. Turns out things don't really happen there til after midnight.

We did find these things though:


We found an English pub though and got one expensive drink, before hurrying to the bus stop, missing the last bus of the night, and then chasing the bus with our TA driving like a champion. We managed to look up the bus schedule and pull ahead of the bus at its last stop before it got too far from Reykjavik (basically cutting it off), then hopping out and quickly jumping onto the bus, cracking up, and potentially making all the sleeping passengers hate us. But it was fun. And we arrived back in Selfoss around midnight. While it was still light out. I'll never get over that.


Sunday 6/2/13
-We realized at the hot creek that we failed at reading and only did the first two (of three) parts of the homework. Decided that we should be studious and take care of that rather than trying to conquer Mount Ingólfsfjall. We also wanted to get some laundry done before we leave on Tuesday for Húsavík.

Mount Ingólfsfjall

-Homework homework homework. Kind of fun. Deriving equations! :-D
-Met up with our friends from the hot creek at the Selfoss pool. Apparently every municipality (or every town?) in Iceland has a heated pool. And ours has a waterslide! Note: you go much faster on your belly. It's about $4 per visit, or you could get a 10-pass for cheaper, which we are considering. It would be like we actually live here!



-Then we went out for some Icelandic pizza at the local Domino's :-P The grocery stores close around 7 here and we didn't have enough left over to feed 6.
-And finally more internet-ing at the university. (This time we stayed until 11:25.. we couldn't remember when the doors became alarmed and decided to just see how things went, and I think we're all good, no alarms appeared to be going off!) Getting excited for when we finally have it at the hotel, although this has been a good break. It's making me realize how much time I waste online.. 

Friday, May 31, 2013

Arrival in Iceland!

 Day of Travel
5/28/2013

Laura and I both Super Shuttled our way to the airport around 3:30am. Yay.

3ish hour flight to Chicago. I mostly spent it sleeping.

2ish hour flight to Boston. We managed to negotiate seat switching and got to be next to each other this time. I have no memory of this flight.

The most memorable part was being in the airport for 5 hours, where Clifton and Laura’s brother Kim both came to meet us! Kim brought an enormous bag of fresh fruit, and we found a restaurant outside of security to get food and drinks.. and a complimentary priority security lane pass!

5ish hour flight to Reykjavik.


ICELAND! Or Ísland
5/29/2013

We arrive around 6:30am in Reykjavik and make our way through the incredibly easy passport control and customs process (which consisted of just walking through a hallway?). We go to an ATM to take out money, and I am very excited about my First Republic account because they reimburse all ATM fees, but somehow I forgot to confirm that I actually knew my PIN before leaving San Francisco. Turns out I don’t actually know it. Woops. No big problem though, I just use my Bank of America account instead, and will just have to pay an extra $5 fee or so for my stupidity. Things to look up when we get internet: First Republic PIN.

We had some pretty elaborate instructions on which buses to take and how much to pay and which ones required exact change in order to get to Selfoss, a settlement of 6000ish people in Southern Iceland. In order to break our large ATM bills, we head to a coffee shop for the first order of business: purchasing Icelandic yogurt, Skyr.

As a fun note, the first thing you notice when you exit the airport is the delicious smell of sulphur. This will prove to be a recurring theme here.

We finally arrive in Selfoss around 9:30am and walk the short distance to our hotel/apartment Fosstun, and think we are home free. We are not. After doing a lap around the building, we discover that there is no front office. The organizer of the program, Hrafnkell (pronounced something like Hrabbn-ketchl), told us to text him when we arrived, and maybe this is why. But our phones don’t work. So it’s time to get creative.

Selfoss seems kind of dead, but we find an open Vodafone store next door and go in to talk to the workers there. They say that Fosstun doesn’t open until June 1st. This is slightly concerning. We say we have a phone number to call, and they kindly let us use one of their phones. Hrafnkell answers! We are saved.

We go back to Fosstun and meet Sofia, who lets us into our room. It’s clean, nice, warm, and has some very elaborate washing machines and dryers. Hrafnkell says he will come by and meet us, but doesn’t give a time, so we decide to hang out in the apartment for a while. Despite our best efforts, we fall almost immediately to sleep. We’d made some tea, but we were both completely out before even starting to drink it. Fail. After 3 hours of sleeping, we wake up, find no evidence of Hrafnkell, and decide to go for a run.

The entire circumference of the town is something like 4.5 miles so we figure we can’t get too lost. We end up seeing a frozen yogurt place (yes!!), horses, some trails, a lot of benches fashioned from logs, and a soccer field which we go investigate. There is a big hill next to the field, and both loving hills, we decide to go to the top and check out the view. A few of the kids follow us up and one boy is brave enough to ask if we are Icelandic. They ended up being really helpful in pointing us to the university, since we still don’t know where that is located. Except they don’t know the word “university” and so we are pointed in the direction of the “school for old people.”

After finally showering (surprise surprise, the shower smells like sulphur), we are off to Kronan Supermarket, when we meet another person from the program, Loudi from the Netherlands! She accompanies us to get food and we cook dinner together. It turns out she has a working phone, and so we call Hrafnkell again and he soon shows up at our door. This is when we learn that we are expecting just one more person to show up.. the program will consist of 4 students!

We did some post-dinner exploring along the river (because it was still light out at 10pm.. and continued to be even at 2am, says Laura who had some trouble sleeping), met a local family and their dog, and discussed some future adventures.

Then an episode of Alias. Then bed. Successful first day.


Selfoss, Iceland
5/30/13

No internet in the apartment yet, so we haven’t been able to tell anyone we are alive, but we are supposed to be at the Earthquake Engineering Research Centre at 10am, and they have internet, so we are pretty happy about that.

We are also pretty happy that we are getting a ride to class. Christian, a masters student who is here form Virginia Tech, takes us to the EERC. Turns out he will essentially be our TA for this class. We also meet Camille from France, the fourth student. Not only are there just 4 of us, but it is all girls! I’d like to think that says something cool about the adventurous spirit of the engineering-minded lady.

Class is pretty good and we are introduced to many people at EERC, some with very challenging names, and some that are easier, like our instructor Benedikt. We find out the general schedule and requirements, and that we’ll be heading to Northern Iceland early on Tuesday and not coming back until Sunday. On the way up (6ish hour drive), we’ll be going through a National Park, which marks part of the plate boundary between the North American and Eurasian plates. Then we’ll stay in Husavik, where Benedikt and Christian will be presenting some research at the International Workshop on Earthquakes in Northern Iceland. This is also the location of the largest transform fault in Iceland. But it won’t be all work.. we are already scheduled for a whale watching tour and have plans to go hot-tubbing in a cheese tub. I will let you ponder that one.

After whale watching Saturday morning, we don’t have any plans, and the rental car isn’t due back until Sunday night, so we’re planning on taking the long way back and stopping anywhere that looks interesting. We are not entirely clear on if there are roads traversing Iceland, or if it’s just a ring road, so we’re not sure where to look for interesting things, but with all the volcanoes and geysers and glaciers in all directions, it doesn’t seem like it will be a problem.

We are given badges to the other engineering building, we check out the local pool (apparently Iceland is the only place where every municipality has a heated outdoor pool!), head back to Kronan for more food, and that brings us to now.

Oh, and I’ve discovered that they have British biscuits here (aka cookies), including my favorite: bourbon chocolate. Omg.


Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Iceland!

Going there in one week! Updates to come.

May 28 - June 26

Practice your Icelandic: http://goscandinavia.about.com/library/Audio/eyjafjallajokull.mp3